The general public is lead to believe that “balanced training” is something new. I can assure you that “balanced training” or whatever we wish to call it is not new, far from it. Balanced training has been around for decades.

For the purpose of this article I will spin the coin around and will focus on what might aptly be referred to as “unbalanced training” or “unbalanced trainers”.

Many of my long lists of clients over the years (who have worked with different trainers previously) have told me that they had been instructed not to use a certain technique, tool, or method utilized by other trainers. I could accept them being told this if these same good people had been told “why not”. Yet they have rarely if ever been given an explanation of why not to use a certain training tool, technique or method. Just don’t!

Hell, some of my clients had even been advised by trainers not to work with me because I use “choke collars”. These same trainers will often proudly declare that they use “positive reinforcement treat based training methods only”.  That limited mindset is what I will suggest is “unbalanced” Though it is true that I do not believe in using treats as a primary reinforcement in my foundation training exercises, I do not completely rule them out either. I do not believe that stuffing a dog full of treats in an effort to coerce it into performing a task that I am willing to take the time to teach it to do, is the best method to instil long term trustworthiness, I believe such sole practices are unreliable in the long term and are often used as “bribes”. I do not bribe a dog to do anything. I take the time to form a partnership with a dog by working together and focus on teaching rather than coercing. In this way I am able to steadfastly develop a partnership with a dog, a partnership that is built on trust, respect, confidence and loyalty. My experience has long ago taught me that positive reinforcement is not and should not be limited to treats alone. There is a place for treats in training, and that is for a job well done – not to get a job done.  I prefer to verbally praise a dog, physically touch and reward the dog, and yes even occasionally I will treat a dog for a job well done. That in my opinion is a more “balanced” approach.

Balanced training in simple terms means to use all constructive methods (humane), tools, techniques, or references, one might need to shape, reshape, or rehabilitate a dog so that it becomes a balanced and integrated member of its household, pack, or even better, society in general. To rule out any of these tools without provable cause is and should be considered “unbalanced”.

Unbalanced are those who reject another trainers techniques or methods based simply on something they may have heard about that particular trainer. We don’t all have to agree with everything another trainer may do or say however that does not make other trainers all “wrong” and us all “right”. It is flawed in my opinion to rule out a trainer simply because a third party may have disagreed with something that trainer did, said or used.

Unbalanced are those who rule out a training tool simply because they don’t like the looks of it or don’t understand how to use the tool correctly or understand the original intended use for that tool. An example might be a “prong collar”. Granted they are unpleasing to the eye, and I for one do not believe they should be used nearly as often as they are. That in itself however does not make them a “bad” or “inhumane” tool when used by a professional and applied correctly on a dog that may need such a tool to save it from being re-homed, surrendered to a shelter, or even worse, euthanized.

Not so long ago I was working with a client who was a volunteer at an organization when she told me a story of a dog that had been returned several times from potential adopters’. This dog had a severe behaviour problem that the best efforts of the trainers at the organization could not seem to eliminate. The problem described to me was one that I have dealt with successfully on a regular basis for most of my 30 plus years working with dogs. I volunteered to help to correct this behaviour at no charge to the organization whatsoever. I made it known that the organizations trainers were welcome to witness and even participate in helping me address and correct this dogs behaviour if they so desired. My services were declined simply because I didn’t limit my tools to a “treat based only” positive reinforcement method!

Keep in mind that this is an organization that DOES EUTHANIZE animal’s they cannot find a suitable home for. Now that in my opinion is “UNBALANCED”!  To potentially destroy a dog because of an unwillingness to keep an open mind is ridiculous. I wonder how many of those who make donations to such shelters are made aware that the shelter would choose to destroy a dog rather than to accept help from an experienced, certified, and humane trainer, a trainer that simply uses a variety of techniques, some of which might not be of their liking or as in many cases, within their scope of understanding.

Too bad that dog’s are not considered in these decision making processes.

Dog etiquette dictates that it is disrespectful and/or even confrontational for another dog to rapidly approach head on while making direct eye contact and exhibiting offensive body language.  That being so, how many times have you seen someone approach an unfamiliar dog, stride right up to it, and then with little or no hesitation reach out to pet the unsuspecting creature on the head? Most of the people guilty of this disrespectful behaviour are adults; many of them don’t even exhibit the courtesy of asking the person in care of the dog they are approaching, if it is permissible to do so. Far too often people will simply reach out to pet a dog, all the while getting all excited and fussing about how cute the dog is, yet giving no consideration as to how the dog may perceive their actions. Don’t be fooled by a dog’s physical facade. Even the most adorable looking dog can and just might bite, if it feels threatened or challenged.

When approaching an unfamiliar dog, the rules of canine protocol apply to adults just as they do for children. Would you allow your child to approach a strange dog without first getting assurance from the handler that it is safe to do so, and that the dog doesn’t mind being approached and touched by strangers? If the answer to that question is yes, then you must change your way of thinking.

The next time you are out in public and happen upon another person walking a dog, any dog, here are some “Do’s” and “Don’ts”

DO NOT  approach a stray dog. Stray dogs may bite for any number of reasons..

DO NOT  approach a dog being walked on a leash without first getting confirmation from the dog’s guardian that it is safe to do so.

DO NOT  approach the dog directly from the front (head on). The dog may view your direct frontal approach as a threat.

DO NOT  make direct eye contact with a dog. The dog may view direct eye contact as being a challenge or as confrontational.

DO NOT  bend over a dog. The dog may feel threatened by a stranger hovering over them. You are also putting yourself in a vulnerable position.

DO NOT  thrust your hand out towards the dog or reach over a dog’s head. The dog may view this as a threatening gesture.

DO NOT  move too quickly towards a dog.

DO NOT  move too slowly or act fearfully when approaching a dog.

DO NOT  put your face close to a strange dog’s face (the sharp end).

Do

Always ask permission to approach and touch a dog.

Always wait for approval from the handler before approaching a dog.

Always approach a dog at a slight angle from the front (approach from the eleven or one o’clock position).  A dog is much more likely to view you approaching in this was as respectful and non-threatening.

Always  look over or slightly off to one side of a dog. In this way you will still have the whole dog in your line of sight but will not make direct eye contact. A dog is much more likely to accept this indirect approach as a friendly and non-threatening approach.

Rather than approach a dog in an upright manner, stop just beyond the length of the leash, kneel down (at a slight angle to the dog), and ask the handler to allow the dog to approach you when appropriate. By squatting down you are eliminating any perceived threat to a dog due to your height above the dog. Allowing a dog to approach and smell you allows the dog to come into your energy field on his terms. 

Always allow a dog to sniff you before attempting to touch him. When first touching a strangers dog, rather than reach over to pat him on the head or back, gently scratch or rub his chest. Touching a dog in this manner is non-threatening and will also keep you at a slightly greater distance from the dog than you would be if you reached over his head.

Always  remain calm and relaxed. No quick movements. Dogs can sense any anxiety you may harbour within.

Not only do I encourage you to practice these few simple yet largely ignored safety precautions, I ask that those of you with children, teach them to follow these simple safety tips as well. By adopting these simple precautions, not only will you be minimizing your risk of a dog bite but you will be showing the dogs the respect they so deserve. Far too many dogs find themselves in serious trouble due to the thoughtless and reckless actions of humans.

 To love a dog is to respect a dog!

The vast majority of dog bites could be prevented simply by showing the dog the same respect we expect others to show us.   

Larry Neilson  IACP-CDT

 

He Just Wants To Say “Hi”                          

I couldn’t help but notice the lunging, snarling, dog approaching as it dragged its handler across the busy intersection towards us. From a distance, the obviously flustered and panic stricken young lady desperately clinging to the end of the leash yelled out “He’s friendly”. He just wants to say “Hi”!

Wow! That would have been quite a greeting, had I allowed it to take place.  Although the very large dog I was working with happened to be dog friendly, I called back, “This guys not”!

How many of you have experienced a similar experience? Perhaps you have been the person hanging on to the leash attached to a dog aggressive dog.

The most common aggressive dog behavior exhibited occurs while the dog is on a leash. This is often referred to as “leash aggression”. This same dog, once the leash is removed, may well become immediately  approachable and non aggressive in nature. Ever wonder why this is?

Of the 12 or so more common types of dog aggression, it is usually only three or four that are contributing to this ridiculous behavior. So many people will tell me that their dog is “protective”! What are you being protected from? A mother pushing her child down the street in a stroller? A kid on a bicycle or skateboard! Stop making excuses for your dogs’ unacceptable behavior!

Dog aggression is a grave behavior problem that is never acceptable. My experience in working with people with dogs that show aggression while on leash, could be classified far too often as “learned aggression”; in other words the dog uses aggressive behavior to get what he wants. If that is nothing more than getting everyone around him excited he has accomplished what he set out to do. Often when a dog shows aggression towards another dog or even a human while being walked on a leash, he does so because he has learned that every time he reacts this way, his handlers and those around him, including the other dog, all get excited and join in the chaos – just what he wanted!  Often, what may start out as a mild fear reaction to another dog will develop into ever increasing “learned aggression” which is often mistaken as “dominant” or “possessive” aggression? The seeds of this escalating behavior are often rooted in the illogical and over reactive behaviors of the handler at the other end of the leash.

Not only can I explain and help you understand how you are contributing to this unacceptable behavior, I can teach you how to identify what drives and causes this type of aggression and help you to eliminate such behaviors in your dog. In doing so, not only will I instill in you a deeper understanding of a dogs’ cognitive process, but you will learn to treat your dog like she truly wants and deserves to be treated and that is simply “like a dog”.  Dogs are not humans, they don’t think like humans (thank goodness), nor do they want to be humans.

If you truly love your dog then you owe her nothing less than to treat her like a dog.

Knowing and accepting that dogs learn by “association”, that is a dog associates every behavior with either a positive or pleasing consequence, or conversely, a negative or unsatisfactory consequence is the key- to behavior modification. Once we accept this simple fact then it becomes much easier, quicker, and certainly more humane to teach and reshape a dogs’ behavior. Canine behavior, regardless of what the behavior may be, is triggered by one or more of their “drive instincts” which we will discuss in detail at another time. For now I will limit my discussion to errors or opportunities.

For those of you who may find yourself frustrated or annoyed with a dogs behavior or series of behaviors, I ask that you view these behaviors as cue cards or opportunities for you to teach your dog alternate and more desirable behaviors that will benefit both you AND your dog.

Keep in mind that dogs learn from making mistakes or “errors”. What they learn though depends entirely on the consequence. If the error or undesirable behavior is “positive to the dog, then he or she will repeat it – if the consequence is negative to the dog then they will not repeat the behavior. It is that simple.

To prevent a dog from making errors so that they can learn from them will deprive the dog of their ability to learn and you of an opportunity to teach and bond with your dog.

If you truly love your dog then you must “let him learn” Converting errors into teaching opportunities will serve to form an indestructible, loyal and life long bond between you and your dog.

Note: Allowing a dog to make mistakes does not mean that we allow them to come into harm’s way. It is our responsibility as good pack leaders to allow the dog to make only errors that are controlled so that no harm will come to the dog.

I will accept a maximum of six students per course and am prepared to begin classes with as few as three students. as of today’s date there are 5 openings remaining.

I am giving those of you who receive this e-mail first rights at enrolling in my school. To do so simply notify me within 10 days or by May 5th, 2011 complete with a 50% deposit to reserve your position in this class.

I will positions in class for each of you until such time I am notified that you are no longer interested or until May 5th, whichever comes first. I will then open enrolment up to the general public until the class is full or the minimum enrolment requirement is met.

I thank each and every one of you for your interest and look forward to this exciting new venture.

Date: 2011-06-07

Private Training

Our Private training sessions are geared toward resolving obedience and behavioral issues that despite your best efforts, you haven’t been able to correct. Larry will meet and consult with you and your dog in order to provide you with an accurate assessment of what will be required to correct the behaviour. Most issues, regardless of how serious they may be, can be completely resolved over an eight week course followed by a follow-up review a short time later.

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Now over a year old this particular dog had suffered from incessant diarreha for the better part of his life. After being enrolled with a variety of trainers in an attempt to train this unpleasant condition out of the dog, the owner resorted to antibiotics and a prescription diet prescribed by her vet as a last resort. None of the aforementioned approaches had any lasting positive results.

In desperation, and following the recommendation of my friend, the dog owner reluctantly agreed to try one more trainer, that trainer was me.

I first met the dog during my initial consultation. After listening carefully to the dogs’ owner describe her many attempts to get help for this dog (and her) in an effort to get the dog off medication and cure the diarrhea I agreed to work with her. She had also outlined many of the “triggers” that this dog would react to out of nervousness and fear. At this point I had a pretty good idea what the root cause of the problem might be.

My approach was not magical in that I did anything special. What I did do was take the dog for about an hour walk, exposing the dog to as many of the previous described “triggers” as we could find. We walked him several blocks to a shopping mall. There I was able to have him sit and even let people approach him without him shying away. This was a first! We then took it a giant leap beyond what the owner though was possible – we took him inside the local pet supply store amid other animals and walked him up and down the aisles as people passed by and several even stopped to admire and talk to him. He did fantastic. The owner was amazed at how calm her dog had become in just over one hour. We then returned to her home where she asked if I would work with her and her dog which I agreed to do.

What did I do differently you might ask? Oh, I didn’t walk him any differently than most although I did make him heel properly and sit on command. Nothing magic in that! What I did do however is radiate calm, positive energy every step of the way. The dog immediately felt secure. He was no longer anxious. Why would he be? I was calm and reassuring in my movements and most importantly my “energy” was calm and very positive. That very day the dog was taken off antibiotics. That same day his diarrhea ceased and never reoccurred for the duration of the time I worked with that dog. Not only did his diarrhea come to an end but his incessant drooling while being transported in a vehicle stopped as well. All of this came about in my mind as a direct result of the right kind of “energy” being radiated from me. Never underestimate the role that energy plays when working with a dog, I believe that at least 90% of a trainers success or failure depends on the energy they are able to radiate consistently, regardless of the dogs behaviour. Positive energy will produce positive results. Of course it is equally true that negative energy will only result in negative results.

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