A test to demonstrate your dogs good manners and behavior in a public place.

All dogs, six months and over are welcome to participate in the test. Saturday June 1st, 2013 from 10am to 2pm at the Shaganappi Community Centre.

For more information and to register, please click here.

]]> http://www.konfidentkanines.com/canadian-canine-good-citizen-test/feed/ 0 http://www.konfidentkanines.com/understanding-operant-conditioning-2/ http://www.konfidentkanines.com/understanding-operant-conditioning-2/#comments Sun, 24 Feb 2013 19:16:31 +0000 f1rst http://www.konfidentkanines.com/?p=546 Many of you who have a dog (or not) may have heard the popular buzz phrase “positive reinforcement” or have even contacted a training facility or trainer who markets their services as “positive reinforcement” training methods only. Let’s examine that for a moment. Do you believe that it is possible to reshape or improve all behaviors by way of “positive reinforcement only? I wish that was true in life, however life doesn`t seem to work quite like that. I would like to expose you to what I refer to as balanced training or in other words “”operant conditioning”".

Operant conditioning is a type of learning in which a behavior is modified by it`s consequences. A behavior may change in appearance, frequency or intensity. You may not often hear the phrase “operant conditioning” however those of you who I have had the pleasure to have worked with will be familiar with “balanced training”. For the purpose of this article I will say that operant conditioning plays a significant role in balanced training, but in itself does not constitute balanced training. Operant conditioning (B.F. Skinner – 1937) is often misunderstood due to the words “negative” and “punishment”.

There are four basic consequences that make up operant conditioning with a fifth less used procedure known as “extinction”.

In “operant conditioning” positive and negative are not used in their popular sense, but rather positive refers to addition and negative refers to subtraction.

POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT – (Reinforcement): occurs when a behavior (response) is followed by a stimulus that is desirable or rewarding, increasing the frequency of that behavior. Example, you tell your dog to sit and he does and you lavish him with verbal and physical praise.

NEGATIVE REINFORCEMENT – (Escape): occurs when a behavior (response) is followed by the removal of an distasteful stimulus, thereby increasing that behaviors frequency. Example – your dog is whining in his crate and you create a loud noise by smacking the crate with your hand. The dog stops whining and the noise immediately goes away.

POSITIVE PUNISHMENT – (Punishment) (also called punishment by contingent stimulation): occurs when a behavior (response) is followed by a stimulus, such as introducing a loud noise or leash pop, resulting in a decrease in that behavior.

NEGATIVE PUNISHMENT – (Penalty) (also called punishment by contingent withdrawal): occurs when a behavior (response) is followed by the removal of a stimulus, such as taking away a dogs bone following an undesirable behavior, resulting in a decrease in that behavior.

EXTINCTION – is the lack of any consequence following a behavior. When a behavior produces neither favorable nor unfavorable consequences this behavior will in all likelihood occur less frequently over time. Example; I will often utilize extinction when I first encounter a potentially aggressive dog. If this dog attempts to make eye contact with me I will not allow our eyes to meet but instead will casually look elsewhere and pretend to ignore the dog providing neither a positive or negative response to the dog seeking eye contact.

The most likely origins of this breed date back to 1652 although there is uncertainty as to how many and which breeds were used to create it.

The protective character of the Boerboel is still very evident and much sought after, as is the calm, stable, and confident composure of the breed. The breed is obedient and has strong territorial instincts and remains the guarding breed of choice among current day African farmers.

The Boerboel is a large, heavy mastiff breed weighing up to 80 kg (175 pounds). The breed is very loyal, and tends to be great with kids however will not hesitate to defend their loved ones to the death. This dog is possibly the most protective of the mastiff breeds and unlike many other breeds is more likely to attack rather than attempt to intimidate an intruder.

Prospective owners must understand that owning a boerboel requires a significant commitment in time and energy as the need to be trained and properly socialized in order to become a well-adjusted family member. These dogs thrive under strong leadership and require human companionship and structure. Owners must be able to control their dogs, through social dominance (developed mutual respect) or even physical strength if necessary to prevent the breeds’ natural protectiveness from becoming aggression. If you are considering a adding a boerboel to your family remember that a 150 pound plus lion-fighting dog is not for the faint-of-heart and can do a lot of damage. It is my opinion that very few people would possess the character to own such a dog.

The South African Boerboel Breeders Association (SABBA) will register a Boerboel only after it has been appraised on individual merit, and not pedigree. The CKC does not recognize the Boerboel as a registered breed.

Lights a candle in my heart

  My chosen vocation is one that brings with it so many rewards, the least of which is monetary. No decision has reaped more rewards than when I decided to volunteer my time and experience to teach young school-age children how to meet and “play safe with dogs”.  

Recently I was invited to pay a visit to “One World” school near downtown Calgary and present the students there with a fun filled presentation about how to approach and act around dogs. The presentation, called “Playing It Safe With Dogs” is designed to teach young children to always ask the dogs’ guardian permission before they approach any dog they may encounter when outside of their home. This short program is also intended to teach children they must never go with a stranger who has a dog. A short video narrated by three dogs explains several ways for children to avoid being bitten by a dog. Included in the presentation are instructions on what a child should do if approached by an aggressive dog and/or what to do if they are knocked down by a strange dog.

Although I have been fortunate enough to have been invited to conduct several of these presentations in and around the Calgary area, often accompanied a Senior Bylaw Officer, I must say my invite to meet the little ones at “One World” school really touched my heart. These children aged 3 – 6 years were among the youngest group of children I have worked with but were so enjoyable. Their smiling faces and innocent questions brought so much joy to my day. I can only hope they enjoyed my presentation as much as I enjoyed being invited to their school.

A special thank you goes out to Shaw Cable and Frames of Life photography for their unselfish contribution to these beautiful children.

To the teachers and staff of “One World School”, I applaud all you unsung heroes for the work you do with these beautiful little people. To you Erin, a special “Thank You” for making all this possible.

Larry

The K9 Kounselor

The general public is lead to believe that “balanced training” is something new. I can assure you that “balanced training” or whatever we wish to call it is not new, far from it. Balanced training has been around for decades.

For the purpose of this article I will spin the coin around and will focus on what might aptly be referred to as “unbalanced training” or “unbalanced trainers”.

Many of my long lists of clients over the years (who have worked with different trainers previously) have told me that they had been instructed not to use a certain technique, tool, or method utilized by other trainers. I could accept them being told this if these same good people had been told “why not”. Yet they have rarely if ever been given an explanation of why not to use a certain training tool, technique or method. Just don’t!

Hell, some of my clients had even been advised by trainers not to work with me because I use “choke collars”. These same trainers will often proudly declare that they use “positive reinforcement treat based training methods only”.  That limited mindset is what I will suggest is “unbalanced” Though it is true that I do not believe in using treats as a primary reinforcement in my foundation training exercises, I do not completely rule them out either. I do not believe that stuffing a dog full of treats in an effort to coerce it into performing a task that I am willing to take the time to teach it to do, is the best method to instil long term trustworthiness, I believe such sole practices are unreliable in the long term and are often used as “bribes”. I do not bribe a dog to do anything. I take the time to form a partnership with a dog by working together and focus on teaching rather than coercing. In this way I am able to steadfastly develop a partnership with a dog, a partnership that is built on trust, respect, confidence and loyalty. My experience has long ago taught me that positive reinforcement is not and should not be limited to treats alone. There is a place for treats in training, and that is for a job well done – not to get a job done.  I prefer to verbally praise a dog, physically touch and reward the dog, and yes even occasionally I will treat a dog for a job well done. That in my opinion is a more “balanced” approach.

Balanced training in simple terms means to use all constructive methods (humane), tools, techniques, or references, one might need to shape, reshape, or rehabilitate a dog so that it becomes a balanced and integrated member of its household, pack, or even better, society in general. To rule out any of these tools without provable cause is and should be considered “unbalanced”.

Unbalanced are those who reject another trainers techniques or methods based simply on something they may have heard about that particular trainer. We don’t all have to agree with everything another trainer may do or say however that does not make other trainers all “wrong” and us all “right”. It is flawed in my opinion to rule out a trainer simply because a third party may have disagreed with something that trainer did, said or used.

Unbalanced are those who rule out a training tool simply because they don’t like the looks of it or don’t understand how to use the tool correctly or understand the original intended use for that tool. An example might be a “prong collar”. Granted they are unpleasing to the eye, and I for one do not believe they should be used nearly as often as they are. That in itself however does not make them a “bad” or “inhumane” tool when used by a professional and applied correctly on a dog that may need such a tool to save it from being re-homed, surrendered to a shelter, or even worse, euthanized.

Not so long ago I was working with a client who was a volunteer at an organization when she told me a story of a dog that had been returned several times from potential adopters’. This dog had a severe behaviour problem that the best efforts of the trainers at the organization could not seem to eliminate. The problem described to me was one that I have dealt with successfully on a regular basis for most of my 30 plus years working with dogs. I volunteered to help to correct this behaviour at no charge to the organization whatsoever. I made it known that the organizations trainers were welcome to witness and even participate in helping me address and correct this dogs behaviour if they so desired. My services were declined simply because I didn’t limit my tools to a “treat based only” positive reinforcement method!

Keep in mind that this is an organization that DOES EUTHANIZE animal’s they cannot find a suitable home for. Now that in my opinion is “UNBALANCED”!  To potentially destroy a dog because of an unwillingness to keep an open mind is ridiculous. I wonder how many of those who make donations to such shelters are made aware that the shelter would choose to destroy a dog rather than to accept help from an experienced, certified, and humane trainer, a trainer that simply uses a variety of techniques, some of which might not be of their liking or as in many cases, within their scope of understanding.

Too bad that dog’s are not considered in these decision making processes.

Dog etiquette dictates that it is disrespectful and/or even confrontational for another dog to rapidly approach head on while making direct eye contact and exhibiting offensive body language.  That being so, how many times have you seen someone approach an unfamiliar dog, stride right up to it, and then with little or no hesitation reach out to pet the unsuspecting creature on the head? Most of the people guilty of this disrespectful behaviour are adults; many of them don’t even exhibit the courtesy of asking the person in care of the dog they are approaching, if it is permissible to do so. Far too often people will simply reach out to pet a dog, all the while getting all excited and fussing about how cute the dog is, yet giving no consideration as to how the dog may perceive their actions. Don’t be fooled by a dog’s physical facade. Even the most adorable looking dog can and just might bite, if it feels threatened or challenged.

When approaching an unfamiliar dog, the rules of canine protocol apply to adults just as they do for children. Would you allow your child to approach a strange dog without first getting assurance from the handler that it is safe to do so, and that the dog doesn’t mind being approached and touched by strangers? If the answer to that question is yes, then you must change your way of thinking.

The next time you are out in public and happen upon another person walking a dog, any dog, here are some “Do’s” and “Don’ts”

DO NOT  approach a stray dog. Stray dogs may bite for any number of reasons..

DO NOT  approach a dog being walked on a leash without first getting confirmation from the dog’s guardian that it is safe to do so.

DO NOT  approach the dog directly from the front (head on). The dog may view your direct frontal approach as a threat.

DO NOT  make direct eye contact with a dog. The dog may view direct eye contact as being a challenge or as confrontational.

DO NOT  bend over a dog. The dog may feel threatened by a stranger hovering over them. You are also putting yourself in a vulnerable position.

DO NOT  thrust your hand out towards the dog or reach over a dog’s head. The dog may view this as a threatening gesture.

DO NOT  move too quickly towards a dog.

DO NOT  move too slowly or act fearfully when approaching a dog.

DO NOT  put your face close to a strange dog’s face (the sharp end).

Do

Always ask permission to approach and touch a dog.

Always wait for approval from the handler before approaching a dog.

Always approach a dog at a slight angle from the front (approach from the eleven or one o’clock position).  A dog is much more likely to view you approaching in this was as respectful and non-threatening.

Always  look over or slightly off to one side of a dog. In this way you will still have the whole dog in your line of sight but will not make direct eye contact. A dog is much more likely to accept this indirect approach as a friendly and non-threatening approach.

Rather than approach a dog in an upright manner, stop just beyond the length of the leash, kneel down (at a slight angle to the dog), and ask the handler to allow the dog to approach you when appropriate. By squatting down you are eliminating any perceived threat to a dog due to your height above the dog. Allowing a dog to approach and smell you allows the dog to come into your energy field on his terms. 

Always allow a dog to sniff you before attempting to touch him. When first touching a strangers dog, rather than reach over to pat him on the head or back, gently scratch or rub his chest. Touching a dog in this manner is non-threatening and will also keep you at a slightly greater distance from the dog than you would be if you reached over his head.

Always  remain calm and relaxed. No quick movements. Dogs can sense any anxiety you may harbour within.

Not only do I encourage you to practice these few simple yet largely ignored safety precautions, I ask that those of you with children, teach them to follow these simple safety tips as well. By adopting these simple precautions, not only will you be minimizing your risk of a dog bite but you will be showing the dogs the respect they so deserve. Far too many dogs find themselves in serious trouble due to the thoughtless and reckless actions of humans.

 To love a dog is to respect a dog!

The vast majority of dog bites could be prevented simply by showing the dog the same respect we expect others to show us.   

Larry Neilson  IACP-CDT

 

He Just Wants To Say “Hi”                          

I couldn’t help but notice the lunging, snarling, dog approaching as it dragged its handler across the busy intersection towards us. From a distance, the obviously flustered and panic stricken young lady desperately clinging to the end of the leash yelled out “He’s friendly”. He just wants to say “Hi”!

Wow! That would have been quite a greeting, had I allowed it to take place.  Although the very large dog I was working with happened to be dog friendly, I called back, “This guys not”!

How many of you have experienced a similar experience? Perhaps you have been the person hanging on to the leash attached to a dog aggressive dog.

The most common aggressive dog behavior exhibited occurs while the dog is on a leash. This is often referred to as “leash aggression”. This same dog, once the leash is removed, may well become immediately  approachable and non aggressive in nature. Ever wonder why this is?

Of the 12 or so more common types of dog aggression, it is usually only three or four that are contributing to this ridiculous behavior. So many people will tell me that their dog is “protective”! What are you being protected from? A mother pushing her child down the street in a stroller? A kid on a bicycle or skateboard! Stop making excuses for your dogs’ unacceptable behavior!

Dog aggression is a grave behavior problem that is never acceptable. My experience in working with people with dogs that show aggression while on leash, could be classified far too often as “learned aggression”; in other words the dog uses aggressive behavior to get what he wants. If that is nothing more than getting everyone around him excited he has accomplished what he set out to do. Often when a dog shows aggression towards another dog or even a human while being walked on a leash, he does so because he has learned that every time he reacts this way, his handlers and those around him, including the other dog, all get excited and join in the chaos – just what he wanted!  Often, what may start out as a mild fear reaction to another dog will develop into ever increasing “learned aggression” which is often mistaken as “dominant” or “possessive” aggression? The seeds of this escalating behavior are often rooted in the illogical and over reactive behaviors of the handler at the other end of the leash.

Not only can I explain and help you understand how you are contributing to this unacceptable behavior, I can teach you how to identify what drives and causes this type of aggression and help you to eliminate such behaviors in your dog. In doing so, not only will I instill in you a deeper understanding of a dogs’ cognitive process, but you will learn to treat your dog like she truly wants and deserves to be treated and that is simply “like a dog”.  Dogs are not humans, they don’t think like humans (thank goodness), nor do they want to be humans.

If you truly love your dog then you owe her nothing less than to treat her like a dog.

Knowing and accepting that dogs learn by “association”, that is a dog associates every behavior with either a positive or pleasing consequence, or conversely, a negative or unsatisfactory consequence is the key- to behavior modification. Once we accept this simple fact then it becomes much easier, quicker, and certainly more humane to teach and reshape a dogs’ behavior. Canine behavior, regardless of what the behavior may be, is triggered by one or more of their “drive instincts” which we will discuss in detail at another time. For now I will limit my discussion to errors or opportunities.

For those of you who may find yourself frustrated or annoyed with a dogs behavior or series of behaviors, I ask that you view these behaviors as cue cards or opportunities for you to teach your dog alternate and more desirable behaviors that will benefit both you AND your dog.

Keep in mind that dogs learn from making mistakes or “errors”. What they learn though depends entirely on the consequence. If the error or undesirable behavior is “positive to the dog, then he or she will repeat it – if the consequence is negative to the dog then they will not repeat the behavior. It is that simple.

To prevent a dog from making errors so that they can learn from them will deprive the dog of their ability to learn and you of an opportunity to teach and bond with your dog.

If you truly love your dog then you must “let him learn” Converting errors into teaching opportunities will serve to form an indestructible, loyal and life long bond between you and your dog.

Note: Allowing a dog to make mistakes does not mean that we allow them to come into harm’s way. It is our responsibility as good pack leaders to allow the dog to make only errors that are controlled so that no harm will come to the dog.